Filling in Small Holes

A few months back we removed an old security system from our wall. It was a few screws and a small hole. When we started working on our board and batten it didn’t cover the small hole completely so we had to fill it. I really didn’t want to buy mesh and other things to cover this small hole. So I found this nifty patch for holes it’s all in one so no mess and easy to use.

This post contains affiliate links for your convenience, please see my disclosure for more info.

Sanding For A Smooth Start

If you have screw holes you may want to sand it down a little. Sometimes they can have bumps left from taking out the screws.  I sanded our screw holes and around the opening of the hole with 220 grit sandpaper. After I sanded I wiped the wall down with a rag.

 

Cut The Patch

The next step you will want to cut a piece of the patch off measure it to the hole. Next, you will peel off the back of the patch and stick it to the wall.  Now take a wet sponge or rag and dampen the patch to activate it.  Let it dry before starting the next steps.

After I let it dry I took some joint compound and filled in my screw holes and around the patch to make it a smoother finish.

Sand

After the compound and patch are dry you will want to sand again. This is to take any excess off the wall and make it as smooth as you can so you are paint ready.

 

Paint

Now you can paint the color of your choice or match the wall 🙂 As you can see with our area I had painted before so the sq is the old color, I had to paint to match the wall.

Finished!

Items you will need

  1. Patch kit
  2. sand paper 
  3. rag
  4. scissors
  5. joint compound if needed
  6. your paint color of choice

More post you may like 

 

 

Replace Your Door Bell

Replace your door bell

So when we moved into our house our doorbell was one weak ding. When I mean one it was one ding no ding dong. So we missed the door until the dog starts barking lol. With good intentions of fixing it from the beginning we tried but never seemed to get to it. If I would of know how easy it was we would have done it so much soon

Replacing Our Door Bell

Replace your door bell

Turn Off Power

Please start by turning off the power to the doorbell we ended up flipping the breakers to find the right one. Testing the door bell for a ring before we proceeded.

Remove Door Bell From Wall

Take the cover off the bell from the wall. Take the wires that are connected to the bell off. Remove the screws and pull the bell off the wall. Now you will have the exposed wires hanging there.

Connect The Wires To The New Bell

There is a hole in the back of the bell we bought we had to put the wires through the hole turn the wires and pull through the front. This took me a min to get the wires to move to the side once put in the hole.  Once the wires are through and to the front you can screw them down in the proper spots. By the way, we found our old one was hooked up wrong. We figure it was because it was broken and so they only had the ding not the dong going lol. The pictures below show the right way 🙂

Now you can screw the door bell onto the wall

Connecting The Door Bell Button

This part was the most simple you unscrew the doorbell button from the house. Unscrew the wires from the back of it. Next, take the new one screw the wires to the back of it. Now you can screw it back on the house.

Turn Power Back On

Now that everything is all screwed in and connected you can turn the power back on. Test your door bell to make sure it’s working. If it doesn’t you will want to troubleshoot check wires, connections etc.  You may even have to find the transformer and change it out.Finding the transformer may not be an easy feat we were lucky and didn’t need it. If you can’t find it call a professional to change it out. Ours was a simple fix but some may not be.

You can buy a new doorbell here from my affiliate link. Keep in mind when you use my link I get a commission from your sale at no cost to you 🙂 So use my links silly!

 

Keep in mind I am not a professional. Please contact one if you have questions or concerns.

 

 

 

How to Install a Cheap Easy Board and Batten

So this project has taken a little bit of time more than most projects I have done in the past.  In this post, I am going to show you how my husband and I installed our board and batten as cheap and as easy as we could. I am loving every day that goes by how pretty it looks. When I decided I wanted to get this late last year I prepped our wall when I painted it so it was ready for the boards. The way I did this is different then getting the actual boards for a true board and batten look. I used MDF Preprimed boards they were 49 inches long and 3 1/2 inches wide.

Installing your Board and Batten

Fill any holes

This is your chance to fill any holes you have in the wall or any dings. We have removed a security system from our wall and had to fix a small hole. We also filled in the dings in the wall from kids and our crazy cat that attacks our walls lol. I swear she gets so wound up and then leaves marks on our walls.

Prep With White Paint

To get started you will want to paint the bottom half of your walls where the white will be. I measure up the wall when I painted it to the point where the top board would lay. Then I masked it off painting the bottom of the wall white and the top the grey-blue.  When I pulled the masking tape off the wall I had a line marking where the top board will go. This was left for months. When I painted the wall last fall it started snowing and raining a lot. With MDF Board you don’t want it to get wet or have too much moisture it will ruin the boards completely. So after like 6 months of bad weather we finally had a weekday we could run over and get the boards to start the project.

 

BaseBoards

Our baseboards a the regular thin baseboards. I wanted to beef up our baseboards and also have a flat area to stick the boards on. We decided to buy trim and use it for the baseboards it was .84 cents a foot so not bad. Although we found with the cheaper trim it did fall apart easier if you put the nail in the wrong spot.

Getting regular baseboards can get expensive and right now nothing is wrong with our current ones so getting the trim was the better option for us.If you do get baseboards get ones with a flat top that the boards can easily fit on.

We took the trim and a board to space the baseboard and trim. Next, Nail the boards down with the nail gun keeping it flat. Please use a level to keep everything straight. If you get one board off it can mess up the whole thing so keep that in mind. We were always measuring to make sure it stayed right.

Top boards

Once we did the baseboards and cut the corners a hundred times we were finally ready for the top boards. We measured out everything on spacing and realized the boards needed to be placed at 49 1/4 inches from the top of our baseboard trim.

Placing the top ledge piece to the side of the top board. After our experience on our test wall in the hall, we realized we needed to place the top ledge piece on first before we stuck it on the wall. Last time we had placed the top piece on the wall then tried to nail the top ledge to it while on the wall. We first found out that the nail gun was too fat to fit in the little space and the nails wouldn’t go all the way down. we were forced to hammer the nails into the board which then scuffed the walls then I was forced to paint the wall to get the marks gone 🙁

The way we put the piece on was one of us held the two boards so the were both flat on the back side that goes to the wall. The other person nailed the ledge down to the side of the top board.  Just be careful at this point you don’t do it too close to either edge of the top board piece nails can end up ruining the board then you have to start over 🙁

Verticle boards

We had to decide how far away from the corner to start the first board. Once we did that then we measured 16 inches between boards to make this easy we used the level to keep the spacing. Our level was 16 inches long so we would measure the top spacing, middle, and bottom to keep everything 16 inches apart. It just so happens on our last board the level fell and broke 🙁 So now we need to buy a new level. I never thought we would use our level as much as we had. If it was on a required list of tools it would probably be on our top ten list with a hammer and screwdrivers.

How long we cut our boards

So we had previously done board and batten in our hallway. We called it our test wall! We wanted to make sure we could actually do the board and batten without it looking horrible. My husband and I are fairly new to the DIYing. Our last house we really didn’t do much other than things that had to be done. I think we replaced the toilet seal, upgraded some pipes, lawn care, and gutter repair in almost 10 years we lived there. Our new house we are constantly updating to the look and feel to make it more us.

Ok ok so enough on our test wall. After measuring it we had to cut all our boards to just under 49 1/4 inches long.

Filling Holes

So once all the boards are up you will need to go and fill in all your nail holes. I used spackle to fill in my holes. I fill in the hole and take a wet sponge and then wiped off the excess.

Ready For Paint

Now you can paint! I painted the baseboard and trim first then painted the top piece and the edge. Then painted in each square around the edge. You will then want to take a mini roller and roll the paint in the middle of each square and paint the verticle boards.

Caulking

The last thing you will want to do is fill the holes lines etc with caulking this gives it a clean seamless look to the boards. I still need to do this but it will get done you can’t skip this step.

This post contains affiliate links for your convenience, for more info on affiliate links visit my disclosure page.

Things you will need

Your MDF Board or lumber of choice

 

Finished Look!

 

Please note while I do DIY and tutorials I am by no means a professional please read through each post carefully and consult a professional when needed.  I will not be responsible for injuries or damages while following a tutorial from my site. All tutorials are done at your own risk. Please be safe and smart while doing projects

DIY-Easy Shiplap Style Wall

Hi! So I have this wall at the end of my stairs and I never knew what to do with it. I have always loved the look of shiplap/planked walls and wanted to do a few in my house but not go crazy. Last year I bought a bunch of used wood boards thinking I would do a shiplap wall in my living room but after measuring I was short by about 10 boards. To give the texture and love to my basement wall I decided it would be a good area for a shiplap wall. Here is how I installed the shiplap style wall.

This post contains affiliate links for your convenience. For more details on affiliate links please see my disclosure.

Steps to the Shiplap Style Wall

Step One

Sand all the boards. I only sanded the one side doing both sides would have taken a long time and would have been a waste of time to sand both sides. Just make sure when you put it on the wall that you put the sanded side out towards you.  In addition, sanding helps so there is not as my children say pokey things. It will also help put a smooth coat of paint on if that’s what you want to do.

Note: If your boards have footprints, marker, etc on them sand it down until the marks are gone.

 

If you are looking to stain the boards you will want to do that before step two. Once the boards are on the wall it will be impossible to stain.

Step Two

Level the bottom

So I took the boards and made sure they would fit ok and as seamless as possible. Where there is a step in the middle of the wall I had to make sure the next boards would fit straight across not overlap or any gaps. So I have I added a little space in between the first boards and the baseboard. Use a level to make sure the bottom boards are level so the rest will be too 🙂

Nail Gun Greatness

Nailing the boards down I took my 18 gauge nail gun to nail them down. I love my nail gun it’s so nice it’s all in one no needing a compressor to make your gun work. Plus with all the safety features it has I feel my kids can’t just pick it up and hurt someone. It does have a tendency to get sticky and you have to clean it but it could just be the brand of nails I am using.If you would like a nail gun like mine here is the link.

 

Stagger the boards

I nailed the boards going in one direction and cut the end pieces using my miter saw.  The next row I put the boards going on in the other direction basically, you are doing a zigzag on the wall so it creates a staggard effect. Don’t forget to put pennies in between the boards to create a little space.

Here is a picture show you the directions I went. Its in the back and forth all the way to the top

Step Three

Once you have the boards on in your shiplap style you can paint them. I did a white wash paint on my boards. To get this effect you will take your paint and add water to it then brush it on the boards.  You will need a 50/50 water-paint mixture to do a whitewash.You can use as little or as much paint as you want if 50/50 is too much or too little. Wanting to have the grains in the board and the imperfections stick out, I stuck with the 50/50 mixture. You could also stain your boards before you hang them. I have seen a lot of different styles but you pick what suits you best.

Note: With so much water in the paint mixture it’s runny you may want to put down some plastic. I made a mess on my hands, clothes etc. I did have a rag to clean it up which is smart to do when you are painting anyway. Also, keep an eye on places that drip it will have drip spots.

Finished look 

Here is the finished wall with the white wash. Sorry! this picture isn’t the most bright.

Step Four

Style it!

Grab some cute decor or tables to style your shiplap style wall. Here is some cute decor I found at wayfair.com. Now I just need to b

 Please note while I do DIY and tutorials I am by no means a professional please read through each post carefully and consult a professional when needed. I will not be responsible for injuries or damages while following a tutorial from my site. All tutorials are done at your own risk. Please be safe and smart while doing projects.

 

 

13 of the best painting tips and tricks

Hi, Everyone!

So I painted my son’s room in Boston Red Sox colors of course 😉  I thought I would share some painting tips and tricks when it comes to painting that I have learned over the year.  I want to share with you some tricks, tips and some painting items you should have.

This post contains affiliate links, see my disclosure for more info.

One    

Wash your walls first- You have to get dirt, grime, hair, etc off your walls. If you paint over these things it may look uneven, the paint may not stick, you could have bumps etc. it won’t be right. I usually use hot water and soap. Sometimes depend on the crud you will need to use cleaner or a scraper.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Two

Fill in any Holes– You will want to fill in any holes you have. I used premixed wall joint compound. You can sand off the excess or wipe it off with a wet rag. Don’t go overboard with the fill or it will be hard to wipe off later. I cleaned a house once that had like 30 holes filled on a wall they just wiped it on and let it dry it wasn’t even flat with the wall. It took me 3 hours to clean it all of the walls so the painters could paint it was a mess.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Three

Once your walls are dry it’s time to tape- I tape the baseboards and around the trim. I do not tape the ceiling, the reason why is because I use a cutting in technique which I will tell you about next. Make sure when you tape it’s really stuck on the wall or you will have bleeding onto other parts you don’t want it.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

For baseboards, you will want to stick the tape on the top edge of the baseboard then turn it down and rub the tape down onto the baseboard. The pictures below show this step.                                                                                                                                                                                             

 

 

 

 

 

 

Wait until the paint is dry before you pull the tape off. You will regret pulling it off too soon. The paint can bleed, it also can just pull the paint off of the wall or you can just make a paint mess with your tape and wet paint.

 

Four

Make sure your paint is well mixed. If you don’t mix your paint well it will separate causing you to get just a small bit of the actual color etc. Before I even pour the paint from the bucket I mix it. Even if it’s just been an hour or two since my last coat. It’s better to be safe than sorry. You will want to pick up free stirring sticks from your hardware store so you have a few to mix the paint. If you are using a 5-gallon bucket you should invest in a drill bit mixing tool. It makes it go fast and you don’t have to hurt your arms mixing that much paint.

 

Five

Cutting in– You need to learn to get good at cutting in. When you use the cutting in technique you need to get just a little bit of paint on your brush put it as close as you can to the ceiling then slowly move the bush trying not to get any on the ceiling. when you get good at doing this you save so much time and don’t have to worry about the tape falling off the ceiling. Or even worse most ceilings and walls are not straight where they meet so it can look wonky. Also, make sure you smooth out your paint once I have done up close to the ceiling I take my brush across the bottom and smooth it out.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

SIX

Paint with the paint brush first-Once you have cut in the ceiling then you will need to go right up next to your edges you have taped off and paint. Basically, you are painting all the edges then filling it in later with the roller. The paint brush I used is a short angle brush I love this paint brush I don’t think I could use any other one after using it.

                                                                                                                                              

Seven

Get ready to roll-First put down plastic, rolling paint on the wall can sometimes cause the paint to drip or splatter on the floor. You will also want to put your pan down on the plastic for this same reason. Save your floors! When rolling the paint on the wall remember to do a v or w type roll it gets you the best coverage then trying to do it in a line plus if you don’t keep the paint even you can have lines on your walls.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Eight

Saving money not buying a new roll-When you are done rolling the paint on and know you will be needing the roll again. You will want to put it in a gallon size zip lock bag and put it in the fridge. Then when you are ready to paint you just unzip it and you can start rolling again. Do this will save you money and time.

You can also use this for your paint brushes too. Sometimes it’s just easier to clean the paint brush every time. I also use a nice roller to roll on my paint the cheap ones you can get.  If you invest in a nice one you will be glad later it’s not as flimsy as others and the grip is usually nicer. Also, the cheap ones can rust a lot easier.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Nine

Cleaning your paint Brush– When cleaning your paint brush you will want to run water on it while using a metal wire brush to brush out the paint. I always used to just use water to clean out my brushes and always wondered why after a while it built up yucky paint and stiffened. Using the wire brush gets out the paint that sticks to it. I might be able to keep my good brush for a while now. Spending a lot on a paint brush is worth it if you can keep it.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Ten

Use the edger tool on big ceilings-I have really tall vaulted ceilings in our living room and kitchen area. I had stressed over what I was going to do when it came to the ceiling.

I have a fear of ladder heights I can’t go to high without having a panic attack. When I went shopping for painting supplies I found this edger tool that gets close to the ceiling.

I tried it first on a lower wall then moved to the bigger ones. I learned as long as you carefully load the paint not getting any on the rollers or the top part you are golden. You will have to use a painting pole to get it close to the ceiling.

Eleven 

Get a pole for big walls-You will want to get a painter pole that hooks to the end of your roller handle for big walls. I don’t like using them on normal size walls because if you get too low it can kind of take off causing an, oops you don’t want.

 

 

Twelve

Use an oh crap rag– Basically, you will want a half damp/half dry rag for when you really mess up and get something on a wall, ceiling or baseboard you didn’t intend. It’s better to wipe it right away then wait till it drys and you can’t get it off.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thirteen

Wear painting clothes– You will want to find some clothes you can designate for painting clothes. No matter how hard you try not to get paint on your clothes you will. I promise I thought oh I can be really careful and not get anything on my clothes and sure enough I would get a drop or a mark here or there. ]

Soon I had to just designate a shirt and pants for painting. After using them for so long on painting If I get a spot on my hand etc and have nowhere for the paint to go I wipe it on my pants or shirt.

 

Things you may need for painting

I hope this helps you become a better painter. I can promise you even using all this I always have a few oops moments and have a little bit of touch up on my son’s walls but I am getting better over time and so will you.

Thanks!

Continue reading “13 of the best painting tips and tricks”

Valentines Wings and Heart Door Hanger

So I needed something cute for my door I thought I would create a  valentines door hanger. Most of the stuff I have I got from the dollar store which isn’t a bad thing its just they tend to fall apart a lot quicker than most decor. Valentines and Easter are the two holidays I have very little decor for. I think my Halloween and Christmas decor have taken over all my tote’s lol.

I have always been in love with the angel wings but never wanted to spend a lot of money for them. I found a way to make them for cheap from this post. I thought it would be easy to make my own door hanger but in my own way. I used a box we had laying around from when we moved into our house. Even if you had a half sheet of cardboard that would work too. It doesn’t take much cardboard for this Valentine’s wing and heart door hanger.

I also want to point out most of my projects are not completed in a day. Yes, you probably could finish it in a day but I have two little boys and a husband that I love to spend time with. This project has taken me two weeks to finish. The first day I did the base of the project and then it sat in my craft room on the table for a week.  Then I did the joint compound and that sat for a few days to completely dry. Then it was off to final touches of spray paint. I am not a perfect project doer but it gets done eventually. Just know you don’t have to finish stuff in a day it can take time.

This post contains affiliate links for your convenience, please see my disclosure for more info about it.

Items you will need for the project

  1. Cardboard
  2. wall joint compound I bought mine at Wal-Mart already premixed it makes it easier for a project like this. Plus a bonus if you have spots in walls that need filling you have the joint compound to fill them in 🙂
  3. A stick to help with the joint compound I used skewers
  4. Exacto knife and scissors to cut out the pieces
  5. A small piece of 220 grit sand paper
  6. White spray paint
  7. gold spray paint or gold paint optional
  8. A heart for the middle. I had a hard time picking one out but I found the wire one I got from Wal-Mart.

So here are the instructions to create your own. Please forgive me if you look at the pictures I had a hard time freehanding wings 🙂

First step

You will need to cut out the wings base from cardboard. I did my wings attached to each other you can do it all sorts of ways too. I was going to make two separate wings and then connect them in the middle and add the heart. I thought this might be a little easier doing it in one full piece. I used an Exacto knife to cut it out. Using the Exacto knife made it a lot easier than trying to use scissors for this part. I found later on that using scissors was easier on the cutting out the little feathers.

 

Second step

You will need to cut out long feathers from cardboard. I made a paper templet then drew a bunch on the cardboard to cut out. I used 12 feathers I would suggest maybe up to 14 to fill it in some more.

Third step

Cut out medium feathers. As with the long feathers, I used a paper templet and drew it on the cardboard and cut it out. I cut out 24 of this size.

Fourth Step

Cut out Small feathers. Using a paper templet to draw and cut out. I cut out  44 of these feathers.

Fifth Step

You will need to hot glue the feathers to the wings this helps so the pieces don’t fall off. I glued the long feathers first stacking a few on top. Then I glued the medium feathers down. Last I glued the small feathers down. Starting with the large feathers makes it easier in the long run because you have to stack the smaller feathers on top to create a fuller more 3-D look.

Tip: I added paper around the edge to give it a little bit more fullness when I filled it in with the joint compound.

Sixth step

You will take wall joint compound and cover the front of the wings with it. Once it is covered you can take a stick or toothpick etc. to move the joint compound out and around each feather. You may want to fill in the sides fo the cardboard as well so you don’t see the corrugated cardboard showing.

Seventh Step

Take a small piece of sand paper and sand it down a little bit just the pointed edges of the Joint compound.

Eighth Step

You will want to spray paint it white or any color you want. Me personally I like white wings. You can choose to leave it with the white (colored) or you can spray paint or paint spots gold or silver for extra pizzazz. You can see I added a little gold on the top of the white.

Ninth Step

I added some cute ribbon on the back of the wings to make it more stable on my door. With opening and closing the door I didn’t want it to fall off the door and break. by adding a string or ribbon it helps keep it on the door then if I were to attach it to the middle of the wings. You may come up with something more creative to hold your wings.

I bought the cute heart at Wal-mart  I love it 🙂 You can put any heart in the middle or leave it just with the wings too! No matter what you do it will look so cute!

 

Finished Project

I am in love with these wings after looking at my door it might be time for a blue door upgrade 🙂 I need a better-looking door this ugly maroon is bugging me so bad. I hope this project isn’t too hard for you. Sometimes the wall joint compound can get messy.  I feel like it takes practice and patience to get to where you feel ok about what you make. I know some of my first projects didn’t turn out the way I wanted them too! I had a lot of thrown away projects lol.

 

Here are some more post you may like that are like this post

Build your own Jack Skellington 

Build your own BB8

 

Please note while I do DIY and tutorials I am by no means a professional please read through each post carefully and consult a professional when needed.  I will not be responsible for injuries or damages while following a tutorial from my site. All tutorials are done at your own risk. Please be safe and smart while doing projects.

Cheap Blanket: Envelop Pillow Cover

Easy envelop pillow plaid black and red

So I bought a cheap blanket because I loved the plaid pattern. I bought it from Shopko when they had a sale before the holidays. I think I paid $3.99 for the blanket. This blanket is soft so it makes laying on it more comfortable. I am considering making more envelope pillow covers from different fabric styles 🙂

I bought this blanket with the intention of turning it into something more functional for our house.

The size of the blanket I bought was 50 in by 60 in. I used 16 X 16 pillow insert. You could use a larger pillow insert if you use the bigger blanket like I did I had plenty of fabric left over.

First Step

Cut the blanket in half lengthwise you don’t need to worry about the line being cut perfect you will be sewing and tucking in the ends.

Second Step

You will then want to fold down the one end and sew it I folded it a lot in this pic but just a little bit is fine. I was worried about cutting off the end. I think I cut off like 3 inches lol.

Third Step

Then you will take the sewed end and fold it in half over the pillow finished side facing the pillow. When you turn the pillow cover the right way the sewed end will be what shows. You will then need to pin it as close to the pillow as possible on the side of the pillow. Be careful not to get the pillow when pinning it. you will be taking the pillow out once it’s all pinned.

Fourth Step

You will take the other side and overlap it a few inches and pin it down. I folded the outside piece then pinned it down.

Fifth Step

Now you can take out the pillow and cut off any excess fabric. Try and cut this in a straight line 🙂

Sixth Step

Now you can sew the edges. I sewed mine along the pin line so it was close and tight to the pillow as possible then you don’t have slack to try and fill.

Seventh Step

Turn the cover into itself so it’s the right way. 

Now you can add in the pillow 

The Final Envelope Pillow Cover Look!

I love how this pillow turned out! It’s soft and it fits perfect on my chairs next to our tree. You can also use it during the month of January if you have winter decor to match. So a two in one idea 🙂 One for Christmas and one for Winter 🙂
Easy envelop pillow Envelop pillow plaid Envelop pillow plaid red

This post contains affiliate links if you want more info on this please see my disclosure.

Please note while I do DIY and tutorials I am by no means a professional please read through each post carefully and consult a professional when needed. I will not be responsible for injuries or damages while following a tutorial from my site. All tutorials are done at your own risk. Please be safe and smart while doing projects.

DIY: Insulate Your Garage Door

This is a DIY on how to insulate your garage door. I had noticed last year our garage was really cold in the winter. I wanted to insulate the door, I had heard and saw personally how this can help keep it warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer. As the winter season went on we never had time to do it. So this year as we were winterizing the trailer and doing yard clean up I was like we are going to do it!

This is seriously an easy project!

First step

We first measured the door and then cut out the pieces to fit the door.

Second Step

You will want to cut out the pieces using scissors or a sharp box cutter. The last layer on the insulation was hard to cut through.

Not all garage panels are created equal! We learned the 4 top side panels below the windows were the same, the middle 4 panels were the same, bottom outside panels the same, and bottom middle the same. Also, double check your measurements before putting the insulation in some of our panels got mixed up.

For our two car garage, we needed 3 25 ft rolls. We had originally bought two but needed a third later.

Third Step

Glue the insulation to the garage door. We used two tubes of nail glue although one tube was close to covering it. If you have a one car garage one tube might be enough.

We used the glue on the high parts of the door like the picture below.  Wrapping towels around the bars on the door helped the insulation stay up while the glue dried.

Now our insulated garage door is done 🙂

garage8 Insulate your garage door Insulated garage door

All Done Here are the things you will need for your project. This post contains affiliate links for your convenience if you would like more info on affiliate links visit my disclosure page.

Things needed for project

Please note while I do DIY and tutorials I am by no means a professional please read through each post carefully and consult a professional when needed.  I will not be responsible for injuries or damages while following a tutorial from my site. All tutorials are done at your own risk. Please be safe and smart while doing projects.

How To: Attach TV Antenna To Your Whole House. Cord Cutting At Its Best!

So we decided a few months ago to cut out satellite TV. We were spending close to $100 per month for just satellite TV Ouch!  We really don’t watch a whole ton of TV so paying that much felt pointless. So buying a TV Antenna we felt was the right way to go.

Currently, we watch a lot of shows on Netflix and buy or rent movies on amazon.com. We still wanted to get the regular local tv for shows we watch on the CW, Fox, NBC, CBS, etc.

Total right now since cutting the cord. We maybe spend $25 a month to watch Netflix and rent or buy movies. Before we would spend more like $110 with Netflix and TV. That is a savings of $85 per month.  There are a lot of places that money could go per month I am sure you would too. I am going to check into a DVR service like tivo with my son’s sports it’s hard to be home on time to hit it live on TV, plus who wants to watch commercials 🙂 I think once I do this we may be at $35 per month. That is still much cheaper than where we were at.

Buying the right TV Antenna

Make sure you buy the right TV antenna for your distance away from the transmitter. We had to buy the outdoor long distance one because we were further than 50 miles away from the transmitter. You can search for the transmitters in your area at https://www.antennasdirect.com/transmitter-locator.html The reviews on the antenna we bought were pretty good I was surprised how clear the channels come in. I think it was better than our dish was, this is in 4k so it’s nice and works best on our 4k TV.

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Setting up the cord and connecting to the house

So the first step to finding the cord that is connected to your house system.I swear this process took more time than it should’ve. I thought oh we will just connect to the satellite splitter and connect the cord to the antenna on the roof no problems right! Wrong we connected it and it wouldn’t work. We ended up having to follow the cord to the box then to the house . Ended up following the cord wrong like 3 times but finally got it. Here’s a pic of where it ended up going.

WHAT! behind the utility box!

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Once we found where the wire was it was connected to the other box pic below. We unscrewed the box door and connected the cord from the antenna to the cord to the house. Then we went downstairs to the utility room. To find the cord coming in from the wall to the cord box downstairs.

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Once you are at your coaxial cord box you will see cords going everywhere. We had to find the main cord from outside. Ours had red tape on it I felt we got lucky with that. I put that coaxial cord into the middle of our splitter that was marked in. Then I attached all the rest of the house coaxial cords to the splitter. We had this 8 cord splitter that fit all the cords leaving room for one.  So if we ever feel we need more TVs connected we can 🙂  Maybe one day we will connect this to the wall it still looks like this. Its located in our utility room that we only go into a few times a year.

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Now you will need to connect your TV to the wall we used coaxial cables to connect the. We did have to buy a few different sized coaxial cables to do this. Make sure when you buy the coaxial cables you have enough length to reach the coaxial plug to the TV.

Then you will need to go to your TV and do a channel search (in the menu on the tv). We had the TV antenna on the ground pointed in the direction of the transmitters. You can search for your transmitters at https://www.antennasdirect.com/transmitter-locator.html  We had to wait a few minutes for the channels to start popping up. From there we were OK to attach the antenna to the roof. Make sure you unplug the cord from the box while we attached it to the roof for safety reasons then reconnected it once it’s attached.

House antenna

The next step from here we attached the cord to the outside of our house using a 50 ft coaxial cable to connect it from the roof to the box. We used coaxial cord holders and nailed them into the wall. I’m not sure they will hold for a long time where our house has stucco. Note: After 5 months the coaxial cable holders are still holding.

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Once this is all set up and connected you can do a channel search (located in TV menu) again and you should be set. We did this on our LG TV, Roku TV, Vizio TV, and it all worked.

You can look at this site for what’s on TV now. I also use

I also use TV Guide to look up shows.

Update: We recently purchased a Tivo. You can look up shows on their guide and find shows to watch. Also, you can link your account to Netflix, amazon video etc to watch it right from your tivo. We pay around $15 per month for our tivo subscription. It helps to record shows I forget about. Regular tv has tons of shows I watch things like, Jane the virgin, vampire diaries, the flash, new girl, scandal, this is us, a baking show don’t remember the name, NFL playoffs some anyway 🙂 Anther good thing with all the winter storms we have had our antenna has held strong and we have yet to lose signal.

Items needed

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Antenna

coaxial cable for outside and inside

coaxial cable holders and hammer or screwdriver- depending on the holders you get.

splitter if you don’t have one

TV Note if your TV was built before 2009 you will need a digital converter box

You will need a drill and attachment for the bolts provided in the kit

Hammer

Ladder for getting on the roof.

Source

Digital converter

Antenna search

What’s on TV

Please note while I do DIY and tutorials I am by no means a professional please read through each post carefully and consult a professional when needed. I will not be responsible for injuries or damages while following a tutorial from my site. All tutorials are done at your own risk. Please be safe and smart while doing projects.